I have several old power tool batteries that have died over the years… I really don’t like buying them over and over.
I got the bright idea (oh no), if I could find an ac adapter with the same volt and amp output, and I could fit it inside a battery case (take the batteries out of the housing), then I wouldn’t need more than one or two batteries while I’m away from an outlet. (Most of what I do, I do close to an outlet. Having cordless tools are just very nice.)
Anyway, I found an adapter with the spec I needed on eBay. Got it home and checked it out on my meter (right on the money for volts; less than 1/2 amp higher than the batteries).
I emptied out a worthless battery, fit the adapter in, carved a hole for the cord and fit the wires inside to connect to the "battery" terminals. Now it looks just like a regular battery, test the same, it just has a cord hanging out.
When I put it in any of my tools, however, the tool runs in VERY short bursts.
What did I do wrong?
New information…. (I’m still trying to figure it out)

If I plug the "battery" into a tool that is variable speed and sloooowly squeeze the trigger, THE TOOL RUNS GREAT!
If I squeeze too fast, though, it sounds just like a non variable speed tool.
rumm… rumm… rumm… about once per second.
Well… I thought it ran great. It only SOUNDED like it was running great. When you put it under a load, it dies. At full clutch, I can stop the drill with minimal effort with one hand. With a good battery and at full clutch, this drill is a wrist-breaker if it jams a bit in something!
What’s going on?!
If you read a bit closer, you’ll see I’m talking about a thing I made. Not a gimmick… I created it. It’s not a battery, but an ac adapter that I put in a battery housing.
DOES NOBODY KNOW?!
It is an ac to dc adapter.
And it was not an easy fit into the battery housing; it’s sitting at a sharp angle and a little carving on the battery housing was needed to get the top screwed down. (ryobi 18v)

As every test I’ve learned to do says it doesn’t have enough amps, my next plan is to replace the adapter with a laptop adapter at 18.5V and 6.5 amps.
That will either be enough, burn the motor up or tell me it isn’t going to work no matter what.

I really hope someone has a better idea.

Hey
Im doing a research about wind turbines and how it generates energy using wind power
I need to know the energy conversions involved in the process of the wind turbines.
Im not quite sure on what forms of energy are involved

Here are all of the forms of energy:
thermal, electrical, radiant, nuclear potential, gravitation potential, kinetic, elastic potential, sound, and chemical potential.

I also need to know the wind turbines energy transformation equation.
For example a microwave oven,
electrical energy -> radiant energy -> thermal energy

Please help
help will be greatly appreciated and rewarded with points ofc

My kitchen table use to be stained with a coat of some type of varnish on it. I was able to sand that off by hand with no problem and I then painted my table black using a latex-enamel paint. Now I’ve decided to remove the paint by using a small hand-held electric sander, but I keep sanding and sanding and the paint is it extremely difficult to remove. I have to sand the same spot for about 10 minutes to remove the paint, which is ridiculous. What could be causing this? Is this type of paint usually that difficult to remove? I’m new to all of this. Thanks.

For making a checkered pattern on guns, is the non-electric method recommended over the electric method for any reason? What about machines that automatically checker wood in a pre-set pattern (as large companies would have)?

I want to buy a power tool set from harbor freight for it comes with the drill skill saw sawzall and flash light. Would you recomend I get this or something else?

I want an antique whetstone grinder like the ones that were used in the 900-1800s to sharpen ax heads and swords.NOT THE ELECTRIC ONES!!!!! One that kind of looks like an old fashioned spinning wheel.